Quest for the Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan

Day 1. Arrival in Bangkok

Upon arrival, transfer on your own to Radisson Suites Bangkok Sukhumvit or similar, located near the downtown Bangkok.

In the evening, gather at the hotel’s lobby to greet the rest of your group and meet your Mongolia Quest tour manager for trip briefing. Meals independent. (Imperial Queen’s Park Hotel)

Day 2. Flight into Paro from Bangkok / Ta Dzong (national museum) and birding along Paro Chhu (river)

On your fight into Bhutan you will have breathtaking views of the High Himalayan peaks adding to the excitement of a holiday in this remote kingdom. At Paro airport, after clearing customs and immigration you will be met by our guide. Emerging into a new landscape, breathing the pristine air, excitement mounts as you board the vehicles and your adventure really begins.

Your guide will take you to your hotel and after coffee we will drive to the Ta Dzong (watchtower). The strategically positioned Ta Dzong has incredible views down the Paro valley. Built in as a circular structure helping it withstand attack; now houses the National Museum with many interesting antiquities: guns, shields, armory, spectacular ancient thangkas (painted and/or appliquéd religious scrolls) as well as more personal items and incredibly elaborate stamps. After visiting the museum we will drive along Paro river bank for some birding before returning to our hotel. Expected species; Ibisbill, Pied Wagtail, Blue Whistling Thrush, Grey-backed Shrike, Rosy Pipit, Plumbeous and White-capped water redstarts, Common Hoopoe and Brown Dipper. (Hotel Olathang or similar, Paro at 2,300m; D)

Day 3. Paro to Chele La for high altitude birding and continue to Thimphu (120kms, 4 hrs).

An early morning departure for our journey up through ancient pine and fir forests to Chele La Pass (3,822m), where there are fantastic views of the high Himalayan peaks of Jhomolhari (7,219m), Jichu Drake (6,989m) and down into the Paro and Ha valleys. Chele La gives us the opportunity to ascend above the tree line into alpine meadows and dwarf rhododendron scrub; here we have the possibility of finding the beautiful Himalayan Monal, Blood Pheasant, Kalij Pheasant; Spotted Laughingthrush, Collard Grosbeak, Blue-fronted Redstart, Fire-tailed Sunbird, Himalayan Bluetail, Rufous-breasted and Alpine accentors and the beautifully coloured Himalayan White-browed Rosefinch.

After a hot breakfast we will bird in this beautiful area before gradually making our way back to Paro and continue an hour drive to Thimphu. The route follows the Willow fringed Pa Chhu river and passes through forests of blue pine. Some of the best birding can be found at the sewage treatment plant where we should encounter migrant species such as: Tufted Duck, Ferruginous Pochard, Eurasian Wigeon, Ruddy Shelduck, Northern Pintail, Garganey and Northern Shoveler. (Riverview Hotel or similar, Thimphu at 2,300m; B, L, D)

Day 4. Thimphu to Punakha over Dochu La at 3,116m, birding en-route at Lampelri botanical park (78kms, 3 hrs).

Today we must leave very early in order to see the Himalayas as dawn breaks over Dochu La Pass (3,116m). This is an awe-inspiring sight; the road is festooned with prayer flags and 108 chortens, celebrating the safe return of the fourth king from a threatened invasion. At the pass we will have breakfast and you can spend time looking at the Bhutanese Himalayas from this advantage point. In Bhutan’s high elevation and the mixed evergreen and broad-leafed forests, there is an incredible wide range of birds, mammals, and flowering plants. Here it is possible to see species such as: Mrs. Gould’s and Green- tailed sunbirds, Lemon-rumped Warbler, Green Shrike Babbler, Olive-backed Pipit, Plainbacked Thrush, Striated Bulbul, Sapphire Flycatcher, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Red-billed Leiothrix, Solitary Snipe and the Hill Partridge.

From the park we will descend down through the sub-tropical forests around Punakha where there are cactus, poinsettia and banana plants, then down to the green terraced fields of Punakha. In Punakha we will do some birding at our hotel compound, looking for Slender-billed Oriole, Collared Scops Owl, Long-tailed Minivet, Scaly-breasted Munia and Oriental White-eye. (Meri Puensum Resort or similar, Punakha at 1,300m; B, L, D)

Day 5. Morning birding at Tashithang (JDN Park), after lunch, visit the magnificent Punakha Dzong.

We will rise early to get to Rimchhu valley to enter the Jigme Dorji National Park for the morning birding. The temperate forest is pristine at an elevation of 1,300m where we should encounter Rufous Woodpecker, Spangled Drongo, Slaty-backed Forktail, Mountain Bulbul, Slaty-bellied Tesia, Spotted Elachura, Speckled Piculet, Nepal Fulvetta and perhaps the rare Pallas Fish Eagle.

In the afternoon we will trace our way back to Punakha and visit its magnificent Dzong which functions as winter residence for Central monastic body. The Punakha Dzong was built in 1637 and situated spectacularly on a promontory at the confluence of the Mo (mother) and Pho (father) Chhu (river). Punakha Dzong is known as the “Palace of Great Happiness” and considered to be one of the most beautiful Dzongs in Bhutan with its towering whitewashed walls, their gold and red bands demarking civil from religious areas; the black wooden window frames and huge, finely carved doors. Inside the dzong we will spend time in the Kuenrey Lhakhang, a beautiful temple housing the ‘hundred-pillar’ assembly hall with exceptional murals depicting the life of Buddha, enormous 18th century golden statues of the Buddha, Guru Rinpoche and the Zhabdrung. But perhaps the most surprising and beautiful of all is the high ceiling, exquisitely painted with hundreds of dragons.

In the late afternoon we will take a short drive along the Pho Chhu valley in search of the rare and critically endangered White-bellied Heron, which is also perhaps the rarest bird in Bhutan. (Meri Puensum Resort or similar, Punakha at 1,300m; B, L, D)

Day 6. Punakha to Phobjikha the valley of the Black Necked Cranes (75kms, 3.5 hrs).

Today we take the winding mountain road up through oak and rhododendron forests, festooned with lichens towards Pele La, which divides eastern and western Bhutan. In these diverse habitats there will be good birding opportunities where we should find: Wallcreeper (winter visitor), Great and Golden-throated barbets; Yellow-rumped Honeyguide; Orange-bellied Leafbird; Speckled Piculet; Crimson-breasted; Bay and Grey-headed woodpeckers; Yellow-billed Blue Magpie; Spotted Nutcracker and Himalayan Griffon.

From Lawa La our journey takes us to the picturesque Phobjikha Valley and the highlight of the day – the Black-necked Cranes who migrate from the Tibetan plateau to over-winter here from late October to March. Phobjikha is situated on the western slopes of the Black Mountains, bordering the Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park. It is one of Bhutan’s few glacial valleys and a very important wildlife preserve. After lunch, we will spend the remainder of the day watching the Black-necked Cranes from advantage points and walk in the valley as these magnificent birds with their impressive seven and a half feet wing-span as they fly overhead. These birds are considered to be an auspicious sign and the people of the valley await their arrival each winter for the blessings they will bring. The valley is also home to the Winter Wren; Oriental Skylark; Spotted, Black-faced and Chestnut-crowned laughingthrushes; Olivebacked Pipit; Durian Redstart; Red-billed Chough; Hen Harrier; Common Buzzard; Golden Eagle and with a bit of luck, a Lammergeier.

Situated on the edge of the forest and wetland along the main road of Phobjikha valley, the Black-necked Crane Information Centre has an observation room equipped with high power spotting scope for catching the best view of the cranes. The centre also offers display information that outline the natural and cultural history of the area. There is a small gift shop, which sells handicrafts produced by the local people. (Gakiling Guesthouse or similar, Phobjikha at 2,800m; B, L, D)

Day 7. Attend the Annual Black-necked crane festival at Gangtey Monastery.

This morning we visit Gangtey monastery for the magnificent Black-necked Crane Festival; introduced in 1998 by the RSPN. Phobjikha is the most significant wetland in Bhutan and as such it is the most significant overwintering ground for the Black-neck Cranes. However, this valley is also home to around 500 subsistence farmers, who although known for their traditional respect for all sentient beings, also wish for economic development. In order to combine these two elements, the RSPN together with members of the village, the body of monks and local businessmen, developed the Black-necked Crane Festival as an integral part of the Eco-tourism/Community based sustainable tourism program. Bhutanese Festivals or Tshechus are held in villages and towns throughout the year. These are happy social events, a riot of colour with quite spectacular dancing. People dress in their finest clothes and gather in the courtyards of temples or Dzongs, in order to participate in the ceremonies and watch religious dances performed in honour of Guru Rinpoche and his incredible deeds. Here in Phobjikha, this is a very important occasion as the people who live in the valley wish to show their gratitude to the Cranes and further their knowledge on environmental conservation for both themselves and the Cranes. The Festival Dances we will see are both traditional and can be traced back to the Pema Lingpa in the fifteenth century, as well as new dances based on the theme of Black-neck Cranes specially created for this auspicious occasion. They are performed by young monks and lay men who, dressed in brightly coloured gowns (often hand loomed silks), and wearing different masks represent Buddhist deities, demons and animals, complete elaborate dances (Cham), representing the destruction of evil spirits, acknowledged in the Bhutanese faith as well as those depicting Black-neck Cranes. There are Folk Dances performed by villagers (often women) who, in lines or circles move in intricate series of forward and backward steps, accompanied by graceful hand and arm actions. But perhaps the highlight of all, are the environmental conservation themed stories and songs, sung by the school children. The Black-necked Crane Festival not only marks the arrival of these magnificent birds but also aims to generate awareness and understanding of the importance of conserving these rare and endangered birds. However, the success of the festival and its continuity depends entirely upon the support and contributions of the visitors and well wishers of conservation programs. By participating and enjoying the event, you will be helping to promote traditional respect for all sentient beings, while enabling economic development; by maintaining continued conservation stewardship. After spending the morning at the festival, we will have a hot picnic lunch after which we will walk the glaciated valley of Phobjikha which will take us about 2 hrs. (Gakiling Guesthouse or similar, Phobjikha at 2,800m; B, L, D)

Day 8. Phobjikha to Tangsibji (58kms, 2 hrs), birding at Tangsibji.

Returning through the pass at Lawa La at 3,390m, we stop once again to enjoy the panoramic views before returning to our vehicles and continuing our drive down through beautiful dwarf bamboo forest to the valley of Rukubji and Nekhachu village, surrounded by fields of mustard, wheat, barley and potatoes before continuing our drive to Chendibji. Here we will spend some time to take photos of the stupa. The Nepalese styled Chorten, picturesquely situated alongside the river was built in 19th century by Lama Shida and is patterned after Swayambhunath in Kathmandu (Nepal). According to the legend, it was built to cover the remains of an evil spirit who was killed there.

From Chendibji the drive continues to pass through beautiful scenery to the village of Tangsibji and our guesthouse. We will spend the evening birding near our guesthouse from where we also stunning view across the Black Mountain National Park. Species we may see at Tangsibji include Spotted Forktail; Blacktailed Crake; Fire-breasted Flowerpecker; Rusty-cheeked and Streak-breasted Scimitar babblers; Golden Bush Robin; Green Shrike Babbler; Eurasian Hobby and Himalayan Buzzard. (Tangbi Guesthouse or similar, Trongsa at 1,900m; B, L, D)

Day 9. Tangsibji to Chumey (70kms, 3.5 hrs drive), visit Trongsa Dzong and Tharpaling monastery for high altitude birding.

Leaving Tangsibji we head further east to Trongsa where we stop to visit Trongsa Dzong, built in 1648 and the seat of power over central and eastern Bhutan and both the first and second Kings of Bhutan ruled here; even today the King has to be invested as Trongsa Penlop (governor) prior to ascending the throne. The dzong is one of the largest in Bhutan and is considered to be an excellent example of Bhutanese architecture. From Trongsa the road winds steeply up the mountain ridges to Yotong La (3,425m). This is known as ‘Yak country’ and often small herds of these large animals can be seen grazing on the young bamboo shoots just below the pass. Descending from Yotong La, we travel through blue pine forests to the valley of Gatshaa, from where we will take a short de-tour to Tharpaling monastery to see the rare Himalayan Monal and Blood Pheasant at close range. Other species we may see along todays drive include: Pink-browed Finch; Gold-naped Finch; Rufous-bellied Woodpecker; Beautiful Rosefinch; Winter Wren; Snow Pigeon; Red-billed Chough; Black-billed Magpie and near our hotel at Chumey there is a nesting pair of Himalayan Wood Owl which can be heard occasionally. (Chumey Nature Resort or similar, Chumey at 2,800m; B, L, D)

Day 10. Chumey to Yongkola (130kms, 4 hrs drive), birding along Thrumshing La and Sengor valley.

This drive is considered to be one of the most spectacular in the Himalayas. All around are stunning landscapes of the High Himalayas, auspiciously placed prayer flags, typical Bhutanese villages and spectacular temples – truly a magical land! We will stop and walk through the tranquil valley of Ura, the highest of the four valleys of Bumthang. Lying in the shadow of Thrumshing La, Ura is quite a prosperous village. In the surrounding fields we may encounter: flocks of Russet Sparrow; Snow Pigeon; Plain Mountain Finch and Red-billed Chough.

Leaving Ura we climb through forests of larch, silver fir, spruce and towering hemlocks, until reach Thrumshing La (3,780m), along this magnificent stretch of road we look for Blood Pheasant feeding by the road side and where once more, we have breathtaking views of the Eastern Himalayas. From here we can also see the village of Sengor at 3,000m. Species we may encounter between Sengor and Yongkola are: Gray-crested, Coal, Green-backed, Yellow-browed, Black-throated and Black-browed tits; Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher; Ashythroated, Lemon-rumped and Blyth’s leaf warblers; White-browed and Rufous-winged fulvettas; Stripe-throated Yuhina; Satyr Tragopan, (rare); Eurasian Sparrowhawk; Upland Buzzard; Mountain Hawk-Eagle; Chestnutbellied Rock Thrush; Plain-backed and Eye-browed Thrushes; White-collard Blackbird; White-throated Redstart; Hodgson’s Treecreeper; Gray-sided Bush Warbler; Black-faced and Chestnut-crowned laughingthrushes; Red Crossbill; Red-headed Bullfinch; Spot-winged Grosbeak and Spot-winged Grosbeak.

From Thrumshing La, we will descend through truly pristine forest where Spanish moss literally drips from the pine trees (evidence of the pristine environment), to Yongkola. (Trogon Villa or Chengala Farm House, Yongkola at 1,800m; B, L, D)

Day 11, 12. Exploring the rich broadleaf forests of Yongkola and Namling.

One of the top ten birding hot-spots in all of Asia. Two full days are spent birding the upper and lower Yongkola region. In this breathtaking landscape we will bird in a protected area of pristine forests using a paved yet rarely used road, providing the ultimate beneficiary birding opportunities. It is here in this birding hotspot that we can look for some of Bhutan’s most prized bird species and are difficult to find elsewhere: Satyr Tragopan; Fire-tailed Myzornis and Slender-billed Scimitar Babbler.

Other regularly seen species include: Rufous-throated Partridge; Rufous- bellied and Crested Serpent Eagles; Rufous-necked Hornbill (the forests of Bhutan are the stronghold for this impressive species); Speckled Wood Pigeon; Blue-bearded Bee-eater and Ward’s Trogon (the male of the species is truly handsome) and two of the Himalayas’ rarest birds, the cobalt Blue-fronted Robin, and the elusive and strange Wedge-billed Wren Babbler; Bay Woodpecker; Lesser Yellownape; Golden-throated and Blue-throated barbets; Collared Owlet; Himalayan Treepie; Gray-chinned and Short-billed minivets; Yellow-bellied Fantail; Blue-headed Rock Thrush; White-browed Shortwing; Verditer Flycatcher; Large Niltava; Hodgson’s Redstart; Slaty-backed Forktail; Sultan, Black-throated, Rufous- fronted, Yellow-browed and Yellow-cheeked tits; Mountain and Ashy bulbuls; Hill and Striated prinias; Chestnut-headed, Slaty-bellied and Gray-bellied tesias; Gray-sided Bush Warbler; Gray-hooded, White-spectacled, Broad-billed and Black-faced warblers; White-crested, Striated, Rufous- necked, Gray-sided, and Blue-winged laughingthrushes; Redfaced Liocichla; Coral-billed Scimitar Babbler; Rufous-throated Wren Babbler (a little known and endangered species); Rufous-capped, Grey-throated and Golden babblers; Red-billed Leiothrix; Rufous-bellied, Black-headed (rare), White-browed and Black-eared shrike babblers; Rusty-fronted Barwing; Chestnut-tailed, Red-tailed and Blue-winged minlas; White-naped, Whiskered and Black-chinned yuhinas; and the exquisite Golden-breasted and Yellowthroated fulvettas (virtually unknown elsewhere); Greater Rufous-headed Parrotbill (rarely seen); Crimson-browed Finch and Scarlet Finch. (Trogon Villa or Chengala Farm House, Yongkola at 1,800m; B, L, D)

Day 13. Yongkola to Bumthang (150kms, 5 hrs drive).

Birding along Thrumshing La National Park. We will bird along the upper Yongkola region before breakfast after which we will drive up to the high pass of Thrumshing La at 3,799m, where we have breathtaking views of the eastern Himalayas. As we drive up to the pass we will stop at key locations for birding, looking for: Himalayan Buzzard; Mountain Hawk-Eagle; Great and Fulvous parrotbills; Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush; White-collard Blackbird; Himalayan Bluetail; White-browed Bush Robin; Bluefronted Redstart; Rusty-flanked Treecreeper; Hume’s Bush Warbler; Red Crossbill; Red-headed Bullfinch; White-winged Grosbeak; Eye-browed, Dusky, and Dark-throated thrushes.

From the pass we descend through forests of towering hemlocks, spruce, Silver fir and larch which are particularly good for species like Himalayan Monal; Blood Pheasant; and Satyr Tragopan. We travel through the picturesque village of Ura before climbing up to Selthang la at 3700m. From here we will gradually descend to Bumthang valley for the night. (Kailas Guesthouse, Bumthang at 2,600m; B, L, D)

Day 14. Flight from Bumthang to Paro (25mins) and cultural visits in Paro.

This morning we will take the short flight from Bumthang to Paro. The 25 minute flight provides us with stunning views of the High Himalayan mountains.

In Paro we will visit the Rinpung Dzong, The Fortress of the Heap of Jewels which was featured in some scenes of the film ‘Little Buddha’ (1993). Built between1644 and 1646 by the Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel, this 5 storey building has white-washed walls, magnificently carved and painted wooden doors and windows, which add to the sense of power and wealth required to build this fortress. Walking through the two guard houses we enter the courtyard where we can see the intricately carved central tower, considered to be one of the finest and most beautiful in Bhutan with separate buildings housing the monastic and administrative sections while the external walls have a most unusual mural of the ‘Mystical Spiral.’ From here we will follow the stone path down to the Paro Chhu and cross the Nyamai Zam – the wooden cantilevered bridge festooned with prayer flags, to our waiting vehicle and drive to one of the most important and oldest religious sites: Kyichu Lhakhang, built in 659 by King Songtsen Gompo of Tibet as one of the 108 such monasteries he had constructed to spread Buddhism across the land. The temple has many relics which date from the 7th century, the oldest of which is the statue of Lord Buddha Sakyamuni. Over the years the temple has been added to and now in addition to the statue of Buddha, contains the impressive statues of: Chenrezig with 11 heads and 1,000 hands, Tara and the Guru Rinpoche. From here we will return to our hotel. (Hotel Olathang or similar, Paro at 2,300m; B, L, D)

Day 15. Hike up to Tigers Nest monastery (5 hrs return hike).

We begin the day with a walk up to the famous Tiger’s Nest, Taksang Monastery. Please note that it is possible to hire a pony for the journey up but not for the return The monastery is perched some 600m up on a cliff overlooking the valley and was said to be where the legendary Indian saint, Guru Padma Sambhava, flew from Tibet on the back of a tiger to defeat five demons who were opposing the spread of Buddhism in Bhutan. The Guru then mediated here for 3 years, 3 months, 3 days and 3 hours; monks that live here today also are expected to remain and meditate here for 3 years. To reach this cultural icon, it is a steep uphill walk through the dappled shade of the wooded slopes, for roughly 1½-2hrs, to reach a tea house (an ascent of 340m). Apart from offering welcome refreshment this tea house is one of the principle viewpoints of the monastery, and those who prefer not to climb any further can relax here whilst others continue on. However, the further half hour’s ascent above the tea house is well worth it, as it brings you to another viewpoint directly across from the monastery. The final section of the walk takes you from this second viewpoint steeply down 100m into the gorge that separates you from the monastery and then climbs back up again to reach the monastery gate – the monastery was designed to be isolated! However, the hike to this important Buddhist monastery is certainly worth every effort. The monastery has four main temples and several other buildings to house the body of monks who live there. Returning to the teahouse we will stop for lunch and one last opportunity for photographs of this iconic image before continuing down to the approach road where our vehicle will be waiting to take us back to Paro where we will visit a farmhouse to learn how to tie and wear a ‘Gho’ or ‘Kira’ followed by a cultural program and farewell dinner. For those wishing to try out the traditional hotstone bath, your host will be very happy to arrange it. After the farewell party, we will return to our hotel. (Hotel Olathang or similar, Paro at 2,300m; B, L, D)

Day 16. Flight from Paro to Bangkok for onward connection.

After breakfast, transfer to the airport for departure.